Our first planned stop on our final day after Vegas was the Meadview Overlook
(actually, located just above Pearce Ferry). The absolute grandeur
of this place is indescribable, and justice isn't done to the view through
photos (but see the one above, anyway. It's still quite impressive!)
This is the second year that we have visited this spot, and I now understand
why Lee considers it to be one of the most dramatic views of physical geography
in the West. In the complete view from the overlook shown above,
the "end" of the Grand Canyon can be seen to the right, where the Colorado
River spills out into Lake Mead through the Grand Wash Cliffs. This
feature represents the western edge of the Colorado Plateau. To the
west can be seen the beginning of the Basin and Range province. So,
here one can look out over one of the earth's massive continental boundaries,
between two of the West's principle physiographic regions: the Basin and
Range and the Colorado Plateau. By the way, this used to be the edge
of the North American continent at one time, as the "precambrian basement"
dives down deep right under this general area. Everything west of
here is "newly added" continent, due to tectonic activity from the West.
Neat place.
Before
being wowed at Meadview Overlook, however, we first visited an obscure
salt flat, known to physical geographers as a playa. Labeled
as Red Lake, Lee knew exactly what turnoff was required to reach this desolate
place, not very far out of the village of Meadview in western Arizona.
That morning at the campsite, Lee had given us a preview of Red Lake, explaining
that it was a rather typical salt flat, created when the climate of Arizona
had been somewhat cooler and wetter during glacial times. The lake
that used to occupy this vast valley, like many other playas in the arid
West, had deposited thousands of feet of salt and other materials over
time. Apparently they had drilled for oil here in the 1970s, and
that’s when they discovered that Red Lake was nearly a mile deep with salt
and clay. Depositionally speaking, this lake had been quite busy!
Also, these salt flats tend to be among the flattest natural surfaces on
the planet, primarily because water bodies deposit materials very evenly
on their beds. Hearing about it, I was not impressed, except with
the process that created it. I was thinking, “flat, hot, and boring”.
Well, the first two descriptors turned out to be quite accurate, but not
the third. It was really an amazing place, and I think the students
thought so as well. If nothing else, it made for a great surface
to play frisbee on.
So, after about a mile driving down a dirt road, we arrived at the “edge”
of Red Lake, obviously at low tide today. Lee was in the lead van,
of course, and we were the third on this trip. Lee knew where we
were going, he had made it clear that he had been here before. So
upon arriving at the “edge,” we carefully turned off the road and bumped
our way for a few feet onto the lakebed itself. Suddenly we found
ourselves “off-roading” on a salt flat! Having never done this before,
let alone within a 15-passenger van, I was a bit skeptical about the whole
thing, but Lee knew what he was doing. Lee’s van took off across
the lakebed, and "Third Van" followed close behind. Our van followed
them both, with me driving. After a few seconds, I relaxed and started
to enjoy the experience. This “lake” was flatter and smoother than
some types of pavement! And there were no boundaries! It was
a very different type of experience. There was no “staying on the
road”. There was no road, just a massive flat valley with hard-packed
sediments beneath us, seemingly never-ending to the horizon. We were
zooming across this thing at 50mph-plus, and it reminded me instantly of
one of the first Star Wars movies, where those big mechanical dinosaurs
of the “Evil Empire” were making their way across a similar landscape.
Our vans were the high-speed “dinosaurs,” kicking up some dust behind them,
traveling quickly but seemingly not moving at all. The valley and surrounding
mountains were so large that they didn’t seem to move much with respect
to our movement.
Exiting the vans and experiencing this vast wasteland was even more amazing.
Others had been here before, as evidenced by the occasional tire tracks,
often in “doughnut” shapes, clearly by those having fun with their own
vehicles. It was almost noon-time, the sun high in the sky, at the
beginning of June in the arid Basin and Range. With a hat and sunscreen,
though, it wasn’t much of a concern. I realized, though, that the
vans were our only lifelines, we were literally quite far from civilization
(though you could see an occasional car on the road in the distance from
where we came). Looking around at this desolate space, I imagined
that the surface of Mars must appear somewhat similar to this. The
students seemed to get a kick out of the whole thing, too, spreading out
from their vans, roaming around a bit and gazing off into the distance.
Some of us noticed that we could see “water” on the horizon, and a few
students actually thought the lake still held some water. They were
amazed when they learned that it was one of the classic mirages that you
hear about in the western movies. It truly did look like water, but
alas it was only an optical illusion, caused by the ground radiating heat
into the lower atmosphere. It was easy to understand after seeing
this how people in the desert searching for water a century ago could be
literally tricked to believing that water lay just out at the horizon.
Another reason we came here was so Lee could fly three of his impressive
model rockets. These were no “Estes” models that 12-year olds build
and fly a couple hundred feet. Lee is a trained, and licensed, “rocketeer,”
or “rocket man,” and his rocket engines use the same fuel as used in the
Space Shuttle. He also explained that he had to gain clearance a
day or two in advance to let the proper authorities know that he would
be flying these things into the lower atmosphere, about a half-mile high.
Deciding to use my zoom lens from far away for some different perspectives,
I attempted to get a photo of the class watching the launches and the rockets
taking off themselves. I decided to walk quite a distance from the
vans so the pictures would convey the wide-open spaces of the playa, and
I could “zoom in” with my camera. We had fun with the rockets.
The first went off without a hitch, and in the calm, clear skies it was
easy to visually follow the rocket all the way up and down. The second
launch attempt was more adventurous. One student was given the “button”
to launch the rocket, and from my position far away from the group, I could
barely hear the count-down. After the “10-9-8…3-2-1”, nothing happened.
I was poised with my zoom lens and ready to snap the photo when the rocket
left the pad. But it didn’t leave. It just sat there.
Three more tries, no rocket flight. Lee went up to the rocket to
inspect the situation, and just as he approached the rocket, WOOSH!
It took off on its own, and I figured that was not supposed to happen.
The students went nuts, making sure that their favorite “rocketeer” had
not been injured. Lee was fine, but only after a few of us had taken
some
lucky photos of the whole incident. One student had gone off into
the distance, just as I had done, to get some photos of his own from a
different angle. When we all met back at the launch site, he and
I exchanged stories about the photos we had taken. He excitedly claimed
that, as the rocket surprisingly shot up, “I almost peed in my pants”.
Between the both of us, we apparently had gotten the episode on film, and
we were curious to see what would develop once back home. Eventually
we learned that another student had also photographed the surprise launch,
and now that I’ve seen it, his is the best one of all. As I write
this, there is a full-sized poster of his photo on Lee’s office door, showing
a rocket lifting off in the background and Lee running like mad away from
the launch pad. It really reminds one of the famed V-2 Rocket tests
here in the Southwest after World War II, where the "scientists" simply
pushed buttons to launch these captured German rockets to see how they
would behave. Video exists on which these scientists are shown running
like the wind away from the launch pad as the V-2 lifts off. In any
case, I’m sure the photo on Lee's door could win some award for something,
though I don’t know what.
While photographing from afar, and as the students chased down the returning
rockets, the isolation and desolation of this place really sank in.
The air was eerily still, and it was only getting hotter. I imagined
what it would be like standing there, without vans, without students, or
“rocket men” in the near distance. I decided that I really wouldn’t
want to try. For now though, it was quite amazing. I returned
soon to the van to retrieve my cold water, grateful that the group and
the vans themselves were not mirages as well. Unlike the contrived
resort dubbed the "Mirage" along the Vegas Strip, we had seen the real
thing one day later. If nothing else, this one was certainly a less
expensive experience! Not surprisingly, the room service and afternoon
tea didn’t show up on time.
From
top to bottom: 1) Meadview Overlook, above Pearce Ferry. 2) Red Lake Playa.
3) Frisbee game on the Playa. 4) Lee prepares for launch. 5) Perfect liftoff!
NASA would be proud. 6) Surprise Launch! Lee Dexter in retreat. 7)
Closeup of the mislaunch. Lee survives to fly a third rocket that
day.